Yes, even in the Intermountain West, sushi has become quite the dining fixture in Salt Lake City. However, even as its popularity continues to blossom – still surprisingly strong more than 35 years after it took hold in the United States – sushi remains a tricky, wary terrain for most consumers. Most people often eschew adventurous offerings for familiar favorites crafted with tuna, shrimp, and salmon. An excellent survey of the traditional roots of sushi can be found in Trevor Corson’s book, The Zen of Fish: The Story of Sushi, From Samurai to Supermarket. Corson writes warmly and fondly of the best aspects of sushi: chefs who really are much like bartenders (e.g. where everybody knows your name) and who value omakase, where customers “entrust” the chef to create delectable offerings (“unpretentious little fish with great character, crunchy clams, surprisingly tender octopus,” as Corson describes so appealingly).

Simply, the last thing you need at a good sushi restaurant or bar is a menu. Trust me, if you go omakase, your chef will smile and deliver some of the most delicious and elegantly presented dishes you’ll encounter at any restaurant.

This experience is available in downtown on the hip and always-lively Market Street at Takashi’s. Recently, Salt Lake Magazine named it the best restaurant in the city. And, the restaurant has earned plenty of other honors.

Chef Takashi Gibo embodies all of the ideal elements Corson describes in his book. He is witty, warm, self-effacing, and a marvel to watch at the sushi bar. This eponymous restaurant is stylish, matching the edible artwork with spectacular, inviting décor. Above the sushi bar hangs a stunningly simple bit of artwork – a giant mesh fish created by stained glass artist Willy Littig.

The menu is ample, well suited for the diner who might be a newcomer or familiar friend to sushi. The kitchen items are as first rate as the sushi, nigiri, and sashimi offerings. And, an omakase order will certainly bring to the table surprises such as abalone, live scallop, live orange clam, and aji (Spanish mackerel). The food is consistently excellent whether you’re in the dining room or at the always-entertaining sushi bar.

Perhaps, Corson’s most important point is that good restaurants and good chefs not only provide a satisfying, entertaining experience in dining but they also educate customers, bringing them into wonderful traditions, which exemplify the best of food and cuisine. Readers will see this theme emerge constantly as we explore some of the best food and beverage offerings in Salt Lake City.

A final word about Takashi’s. Do not be intimidated by the menu or the prices. Takashi provides a reasonable balance on all accounts. And, judging by the traffic of regulars into his restaurant, this is no idle assertion.